I like this picture because of how calm the guy looks compared to how rough the water is. It represents the calm before the storm through the guy and the wave. Also their is a cool contrast between the orange of the board and the blue of the wave. Also the fade on the surfboard and on the wave are keen to the eye.

Their are many photographic principles displayed here. One is shallow depth of field. The board and the surfer are in focus but the wave is out out focus. This put emphasis on the surfer who will conquer the wave. These are the principles that make this picture enjoyable for me.